Hello...

I would like to know if there is a simple way to create serial ports for the WRT54G without building it myself? Because, I don't like electronic. I don't want to take the risk to damage my hardware or to have to test the wires during hours.

Idealy, I would be interested by buying a wire wich would do the same thing as this one :  http://www.rwhitby.net/wrt54gs/serial.html

Because I would like to build a little software that would use a GPS and a GSM on the WRT54G. I though about the WRT54G, because it is simple to use, there is a huge support (with the OpenWRT) and it's really cheaper. As it is powered by a 12V alimentation, it would be pretty simple to supply in car. And with that stuff we could localisate our car at any moment.

The main goal would be :
GPS --(serial port)--> WRT54G/gpsd -> software of my own --(serial port)--> GSM

+ The WIFI : It could permit to send continuous localisation data (but that's not the main goal)

Frequently, it would do a minimal connection to a server (via GSM/GPRS), and if the server ask for something, it would give the GPS position.

Actual products cost minimum 600$ and aren't really efficient... As it would be an OpenSource and personnal use software, people could make it working on every widely used (or not) software (like Google Earth).

(Last edited by superfc on 7 Jun 2006, 00:37)

You may use a serial data cable for cell phones (or a usb one that converts to cell-phone plug), cut off the cell phone plug, and wire it to one of the serial connectors or the WRT.
This still involves:
- finding ground, power, Tx and Rx (check the docs for the cell phone)
- checking voltages on the Tx and Rx wires while the cable is connected to the PC (and data sent, without handshaking on)
... but no risk, no fun.

When you built one, copy it so you have a console cable (for serial 1, 115.2k) and a data cable (for serial 2, 9600).

I suck with a soldering iron too.

You can buy the MAX233 kits assembled for an extra $6. That's what I did. Then I got a friend with a soldering iron to do the minor job of adding an IDC-10 connector to the board.  For cabling I bought some ribbon cable and those blue snap-on connectors and after some flipping of wires to get the pinouts to match got it working.

All I need to connect my kit to any new device is adding the IDC-10 connector itself which costs less than a dollar.

(Last edited by vincentfox on 7 Jun 2006, 23:02)